Corn Snake Care Sheet

shadythetortie:

There’s been alot of asks going around lately (especially over at @wheremyscalesslither and I think @tailsandco) looking for corn snake care and such, so to ease up some of the pressure, I figured I’d share my own care sheet.

Corn snakes are some of the best starter snakes to get, especially for teenagers or young adults. They’re easy to take care of, easily handled and often aren’t that aggressive. Not to mention they come in dozens of colours and patterns. There are too many colours to list, so you’ll have to ask whoever you’re getting the snake form the specifics, if you want to know.

Fun facts:

• Their scientific name is Pantherophis guttatus
• Corn snakes can live up to 20 years or more!
• They often get from 4 to 6 feet in length, with males being the larger.
• They are solitary, and do not do well housed together.
• They are escape artists!! If there’s a way out, they will find it.
• Corn snakes come in so many colors, it’s easy to find one you love!

Before you even get your snake, you’re going to need a few things.

Tank

• Hatchlings and young snakes can do well in something as small as a 10 gallon tank, but adults will need a 20-40 gallon long tank. Corn snakes do better in tanks that are longer rather than taller.
• You will need a secure locking lid. Corn snakes are escape artists – NEVER DOUBT THEIR ABILITY TO GET OUT OF A TANK. If there is a space, they will find it.
• You want your tank to be big enough so that your snake, fully stretched out, will take up less than the length of one side and half of the other.

What you’re going to need for your tank:

Something to place it on

• You want it to be strong enough to support your tank and everything in it.

Substrate

• DO NOT USE SAND
• Reptibark is great for corn snakes.

Hides

• Be creative! You can even make your own.
• Have at least two hides – one on the warm end, and one on the cool. The more, the better!

Water bowl

• Your water bowl should be big enough for the snake to sit in. Fresh water should be available at all times.

Heat sources

• One side of your tank will be your ‘cool’ side, and the other your ‘warm’ side. This means that whatever you use for a heat source, keep it to one side of the tank. Snakes regulate their temperature with their environment, so it’s good to have a variation.
• Heat pads and heat lamps are great for corns. Make sure to give them a 12 hour daylight cycle. Heat lamps will project light (even the night time ones) so during the night use a heat pad or a ceramic emitter.

Thermometer/Hydrometer

• You want two thermometers – one on the cool side, and one on the warm side.
• Warm side should be around 80-85 degrees (26 – 30°C)
• Cool side should be around 70-75 degrees (21 – 24°C)
• Humidity should be around 40-50% across the tank. You can increase this by misting your tank during shedding to help your snake get its shed off, or giving your snake a ‘moist’ hide. More will be explained in the ‘Shedding’ section.

Decorations

• This is the fun part! Time to decorate your tank. You want plenty of décor. Snakes love feeling hidden and safe, and even if it seems weird, you’ll see your snake out and about more if they have more places to hide.
• Branches are a great thing to have.

Honestly, just have fun with your tank. You want it to be something that’s functional, that your snake will be comfortable in, but at the same time you want something that’s nice to look at! Make sure to spot clean your tank every day, and do a full clean every month.

Food

Corn snakes, like all snakes, are carnivores. Hatchlings will eat pinkies (newborn mice), while adults may eat multiple fully grown mice. We recommend you feed your corn snake every 5 days for younger snakes, and every 7 to 10 days for adults. Your prey item should not be any larger than 1.5x the width of your snake’s head. Buy frozen mice from your local pet store. When it’s time for feeding, take out what you want to feed and place it in a plastic baggie in warm water until thawed.

You may choose to feed your snake in its tank, or in a separate bin. Place the mouse in the feeding area and introduce your snake to it. You may have to move the mouse with a snake hook or feeding tongs, or hold the mouse by its tail for the snake to strike at. Do not use your hand.

If your snake doesn’t want to eat, you can try ‘braining’ the mouse – slicing its head open so that some of the brain matter appears. This will increase the scent and hopefully entice your snake. You can also try reheating the mouse in warm water if it seems too cold. If this doesn’t work, try again 2 to 3 days later.

We do not advise feeding live prey. Live mice can injure your snake leading to serious medical problems, and are generally not easy to get every week unless you breed them yourself.

Do not handle your snake for 2-3 days after feeding to prevent digestion problems or regurgitation.

Handling

Once you have your snake at home in its new tank, let it adjust for a few days before trying to handle it. When you do, don’t be surprised if it’s nervous. You’re new to it, and it will take a few sessions of being handled for it to get used to you. Using a snake hook to lift your snake out of its tank or wearing gloves are great ways to start out if you’re nervous about reaching in. Daily handling of your snake will help it calm down and get used to you, reducing aggression and the risk of being bitten.

When handling your snake, keep your hands relaxed. Don’t grab your snake. Scoop your hand under its side and support its body to pick it up. Corn snakes aren’t generally aggressive, but they will strike if you startle them, so keep your movements calm and slow. Try not to grab at its head. If it’s heading somewhere you don’t want it to, gently redirect it by moving its body away.

Corn snakes do not like to sit still. They love to explore new things, so be prepared to keep an eye on your scaly friend at all times!

Shedding

Shedding is an essential part of every snake’s life. Snakes shed their skin all in one piece when they outgrow it, starting at the head and essentially turning it inside out. As your snake gets ready to shed, its eyes will turn blue and its body will dull in colour, and it will often stay hidden for a few days. They can’t see very well at all in this stage, so your snake will be nervous, and possibly strike if startled. It’s best to leave them be. After a few days, your snake’s eyes will clear up, meaning it is about to shed.

To help your snake along, mist the tank daily to up the humidity. You can offer a moist hide – sometimes something as simple as an empty butter container with damp paper towel will do. You can also use moss (not from outside – from a pet store) to place in it.

Sometimes giving it a bath will help too. Fill a container with enough lukewarm water to just barely cover your snake, and gently let your snake run through the water and your fingers. Be careful to keep it from putting its head under. Sometimes they’ll drink their bath water, and that’s okay. If they poop, clean out the container and use fresh water.

Your snake should shed within the next few days once its eyes clear up again. If it doesn’t, give it baths each day and let it run through your fingers to help loosen the old skin. This also helps if your snake sheds in pieces and you need to get the rest off. Never pull at the shed – let it come off on its own. Make sure your snake completely sheds its eye caps and its tail tip with each shed.

Veterinary Care

Snakes, like any other animal, can get sick. If your snake:

• gets lethargic/listless
• starts getting discharge from its nostrils or vent
• sounds like it is breathing funny
• stops eating over several weeks or regurgitates several meals,

–Bring it to a veterinarian. They will help you to get your snake better, and they want what’s best for your snake as much as you do. Make sure to choose a vet that has dealt with snakes before, and knows what they’re doing.

These are just the basics of owning your first corn snake. There are many more things you can learn, and we always recommend doing your own research before getting any kind of animal.

If you have any questions or concerns, you can always send me an ask and I’d be happy to help.