merosmenagerie:

enigma731:

todaysbird:

psa: cat saliva is toxic to birds.

many people don’t understand just why cat attacks are so deadly to birds. even if the bird receives what looks like a minor cut, cat saliva is extremely deadly to them and will poison them if it enters the bloodstream. even a scratch from a claw instead of a bitemark can kill them, as cats coat their claws in saliva when they clean their feet. if you find a bird that has been attacked by a cat, please bring it to a wildlife rehabber even if it seems “okay”. if your bird has been attacked by a cat, please bring it to an avian vet ASAP. it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Adding on: ASAP means “within hours,” not in a few days. It is a true emergency.

Same with reptiles! The thing that makes cat saliva so dangerous is called gram-negative bacteria and is present in the mouths of all mammals (including humans!). Any bite from a mammal on a non-mammalian animal is an emergency for this reason!

Keep your cats, dogs etc away from birds and reptiles for their own safety.

4th of July PSA

maneth985:

rebelbyrdie:

Attention Americans:

Be considerate with your 4th of July celebrations. Many of our neighbors are active military or Veterans and fireworks can and will trigger their PTSD. Many have signs in their yards, others will not.

anf for fuck’s sake, keep your pets safe inside, some get scared and start running then get lost, fireworks freaks them out. Give them a mild sedative if you must.

merosmenagerie:

merosmenagerie:

This is a reminder as the hot weather rolls in, to be cautious about walking your dogs in hot weather. Heatstroke is a real risk!

Take lots of water with you and try to avoid tarmac or pavemented areas. Shorten your walks, try to stick to dawn and dusk when it’s cooler and be especially careful with white dogs as they are more prone to damage caused by the sun.

Remember to test the pavement – if you struggle to hold the back of your hand against the pavement surface for 7 seconds it’s too hot for your dogs’ paws!

I swear to god if I see any more huskies being dragged along by their owners at 1pm in full midday 30°c sun I aM GOING TO SCREAM

scale-up-enrichment:

justnoodlefishthings:

good morning don’t fucking use essential oils around your pets especially birds and reptiles and cats spraying your pet with diluted lavender isn’t going to antioxidize them or whatever stupid bullshit you pulled off a holistic website

Don’t use around fish either! If you have a diffuser in the same room as your tank, the oils can settle on the surface of the water. It’s especially dangerous for bettas.

i’ve been seeing discourse about whether it is better to feed snakes in a seperate tub vs. in their enclosure, primarily because people claim that feeding snakes in a seperate tub can cause them to vomit up their meal, while people for separate tub feeding say that feeding in an enclosure may cause a snake to bite you if you try to reach in. what is your view on this?

merosmenagerie:

i-m-snek:

wheremyscalesslither:

followthebluebell:

[disclaimer: I don’t currently keep snakes, but i kept them in the past]

So my personal experience is that feeding in tank did NOT result in a higher bite risk.  But handling a snake DIRECTLY after feeding it?  Yeah.  That could cause a nasty regurgitation, which seemed much more harmful than being bitten.  I’d rather be bitten than cause a snake to regurge.  A snake bite would hurt for a few minutes, but a snake regurging could damage its health.

The thing that gets me about the whole ‘omg the snake is GOING TO BITE IF U FEED IN THE ENCLOSURE’ is that the snake is in feeding mode regardless.  It knows that there’s food.  It smells that m.ouse or r.at.  So it seems to me that it’s much more likely to bite you when you’re trying to haul it out of its viv, put it in a feeding bin, and then trying to put it BACK in the viv. 

if I felt particularly worried about being bitten, I’d just use a hook to remove the snake from its vivarium for handling purposes. 

but let’s get some current snake keepers in on this and get their input. @i-m-snek @wheremyscalesslither 

You’re more likely to getting bitten feeding in a separate bin than feeding in the enclosure. A hungry snake is bitey and easily jump started into hunger mode on feeding day. Even afterwards, many species will remain in feeding mode so then you have to remove a bitey snake from the feeding bin into their habitat.

There are definitely species that would be really difficult to put into a feeding tub, like so many king snakes I know. Other snakes, like ball pythons, are less likely to feed after being removed from their habitats. There is a risk of regurgitation- it’s not super high but it has been known to happen.

Some people have better luck feeding out of the enclosure.

Imo it’s not necessary to remove snakes from their habitats for feeding and there are more drawbacks than benefits.

^ Agreed with the above. Especially about being put into a feeding tub, I cannot even put my hand near Cass and Aurelions enclosures on feeding day because they can smell the thawing food, let alone be able and try to pick them up without them attempting to eat me. 
It is less stressful for the snakes in general to keep it in its enclosure for feeding time, and much less of a risk for regurge. 
And, as Heather said, ball pythons are very shy eaters and some, if not most, will outright refuse to eat out of their enclosures.

When I bought home a ball python for the first time, after about a week I went to pick him up on the morning of a feeding day (I always feed in the evening) and he, used to being fed outside of the viv by his previous owner, immediately latched straight onto my hand and wouldn’t get off for about half an hour even when I put him under a tap.

In contrast, my bp girl who has always been fed in her enclosure, I can take out at whatever point on feeding day before she is fed with no consequences whatsoever.

So anecdotally, I personally have found they’re more aggressive when fed outside of the viv, hence just one of the reasons why I feed inside the vivarium.

Corn Snake Care Sheet

shadythetortie:

There’s been alot of asks going around lately (especially over at @wheremyscalesslither and I think @tailsandco) looking for corn snake care and such, so to ease up some of the pressure, I figured I’d share my own care sheet.

Corn snakes are some of the best starter snakes to get, especially for teenagers or young adults. They’re easy to take care of, easily handled and often aren’t that aggressive. Not to mention they come in dozens of colours and patterns. There are too many colours to list, so you’ll have to ask whoever you’re getting the snake form the specifics, if you want to know.

Fun facts:

  • Their scientific name is Pantherophis guttatus
  • Corn snakes can live up to 20 years or more!
  • They often get from 4 to 6 feet in length, with males being the larger.
  • They are solitary, and do not do well housed together.
  • They are escape artists!! If there’s a way out, they will find it.
  • Corn snakes come in so many colors, it’s easy to find one you love!

Before you even get your snake, you’re going to need a few things.

Tank

  • Hatchlings and young snakes can do well in something as small as a 10 gallon tank, but adults will need a 20-40 gallon long tank. Corn snakes do better in tanks that are longer rather than taller.
  • You will need a secure locking lid. Corn snakes are escape artists – NEVER DOUBT THEIR ABILITY TO GET OUT OF A TANK. If there is a space, they will find it.
  • You want your tank to be big enough so that your snake, fully stretched out, will take up less than the length of one side and half of the other.

What you’re going to need for your tank:

Something to place it on

  • You want it to be strong enough to support your tank and everything in it.

Substrate

  • DO NOT USE SAND
  • Reptibark is great for corn snakes.

Hides

  • Be creative! You can even make your own.
  • Have at least two hides – one on the warm end, and one on the cool. The more, the better!

Water bowl

  • Your water bowl should be big enough for the snake to sit in. Fresh water should be available at all times.

Heat sources

  • One side of your tank will be your ‘cool’ side, and the other your ‘warm’ side. This means that whatever you use for a heat source, keep it to one side of the tank. Snakes regulate their temperature with their environment, so it’s good to have a variation.
  • Heat pads and heat lamps are great for corns. Make sure to give them a 12 hour daylight cycle. Heat lamps will project light (even the night time ones) so during the night use a heat pad or a ceramic emitter.

Thermometer/Hydrometer

  • You want two thermometers – one on the cool side, and one on the warm side.
  • Warm side should be around 80-85 degrees (26 – 30°C)
  • Cool side should be around 70-75 degrees (21 – 24°C)
  • Humidity should be around 40-50% across the tank. You can increase this by misting your tank during shedding to help your snake get its shed off, or giving your snake a ‘moist’ hide. More will be explained in the ‘Shedding’ section.

Decorations

  • This is the fun part! Time to decorate your tank. You want plenty of dĂ©cor. Snakes love feeling hidden and safe, and even if it seems weird, you’ll see your snake out and about more if they have more places to hide.
  • Branches are a great thing to have.

Honestly, just have fun with your tank. You want it to be something that’s functional, that your snake will be comfortable in, but at the same time you want something that’s nice to look at! Make sure to spot clean your tank every day, and do a full clean every month.

Food

Corn snakes, like all snakes, are carnivores. Hatchlings will eat pinkies (newborn mice), while adults may eat multiple fully grown mice. We recommend you feed your corn snake every 5 days for younger snakes, and every 7 to 10 days for adults. Your prey item should not be any larger than 1.5x the width of your snake’s head. Buy frozen mice from your local pet store. When it’s time for feeding, take out what you want to feed and place it in a plastic baggie in warm water until thawed.

You may choose to feed your snake in its tank, or in a separate bin. Place the mouse in the feeding area and introduce your snake to it. You may have to move the mouse with a snake hook or feeding tongs, or hold the mouse by its tail for the snake to strike at. Do not use your hand.

If your snake doesn’t want to eat, you can try ‘braining’ the mouse – slicing its head open so that some of the brain matter appears. This will increase the scent and hopefully entice your snake. You can also try reheating the mouse in warm water if it seems too cold. If this doesn’t work, try again 2 to 3 days later.

We do not advise feeding live prey. Live mice can injure your snake leading to serious medical problems, and are generally not easy to get every week unless you breed them yourself.

Do not handle your snake for 2-3 days after feeding to prevent digestion problems or regurgitation.

Handling

Once you have your snake at home in its new tank, let it adjust for a few days before trying to handle it. When you do, don’t be surprised if it’s nervous. You’re new to it, and it will take a few sessions of being handled for it to get used to you. Using a snake hook to lift your snake out of its tank or wearing gloves are great ways to start out if you’re nervous about reaching in. Daily handling of your snake will help it calm down and get used to you, reducing aggression and the risk of being bitten.

When handling your snake, keep your hands relaxed. Don’t grab your snake. Scoop your hand under its side and support its body to pick it up. Corn snakes aren’t generally aggressive, but they will strike if you startle them, so keep your movements calm and slow. Try not to grab at its head. If it’s heading somewhere you don’t want it to, gently redirect it by moving its body away.

Corn snakes do not like to sit still. They love to explore new things, so be prepared to keep an eye on your scaly friend at all times!

Shedding

Shedding is an essential part of every snake’s life. Snakes shed their skin all in one piece when they outgrow it, starting at the head and essentially turning it inside out. As your snake gets ready to shed, its eyes will turn blue and its body will dull in colour, and it will often stay hidden for a few days. They can’t see very well at all in this stage, so your snake will be nervous, and possibly strike if startled. It’s best to leave them be. After a few days, your snake’s eyes will clear up, meaning it is about to shed.

To help your snake along, mist the tank daily to up the humidity. You can offer a moist hide – sometimes something as simple as an empty butter container with damp paper towel will do. You can also use moss (not from outside – from a pet store) to place in it.

Sometimes giving it a bath will help too. Fill a container with enough lukewarm water to just barely cover your snake, and gently let your snake run through the water and your fingers. Be careful to keep it from putting its head under. Sometimes they’ll drink their bath water, and that’s okay. If they poop, clean out the container and use fresh water.

Your snake should shed within the next few days once its eyes clear up again. If it doesn’t, give it baths each day and let it run through your fingers to help loosen the old skin. This also helps if your snake sheds in pieces and you need to get the rest off. Never pull at the shed – let it come off on its own. Make sure your snake completely sheds its eye caps and its tail tip with each shed.

Veterinary Care

Snakes, like any other animal, can get sick. If your snake:

  • gets lethargic/listless
  • starts getting discharge from its nostrils or vent
  • sounds like it is breathing funny
  • stops eating over several weeks or regurgitates several meals,

–Bring it to a veterinarian. They will help you to get your snake better, and they want what’s best for your snake as much as you do. Make sure to choose a vet that has dealt with snakes before, and knows what they’re doing.

These are just the basics of owning your first corn snake. There are many more things you can learn, and we always recommend doing your own research before getting any kind of animal.

If you have any questions or concerns, you can always send me an ask and I’d be happy to help.

the-long-dog:

squeedge:

sunfish-exotics:

kaijutegu:

I was really into the signs all over ReptileFest- they all sent home messages of responsibility and the actual challenges of owning different species. Very refreshing- you never see stuff like this at breeder shows (because they want everyone to buy things)!

This is so amazing!

This is so inspiring and incredible and I’d love to see something like this brought to the Pacific northwest! God I’d honestly work so hard to make something like this happen.

Or to the expos that are established here already. There’s definitely educational opportunities and information available, but it’s overshadowed by the ‘spectacle’ of the trade and the majority of the info you’ll find is centered around breeders.

I’m with you. Even the nearby Herpetological Societies boths don’t look anything like this.

zooophagous:

thebibliosphere:

thewoonderkabinett:

thebibliosphere:

thebibliosphere:

Oh my god, food extract is not the same as an essential oil.

Food extract is the flavoring of something cooked down into a carrier oil or alcohol that is safe for human ingestion.

Essential oil is the pure extract of the plant refined down and distilled for concentrated medicinal purposes to a significantly higher strength than simply adding ground up mint leaves to your water. The two are not comparable in any way.

Cinnamon extract and cinnamon essential oil are not the same thing.

One is about 100 times the strength of the other and can also cause acute organ failure. I’ll give you a hint, it’s not the food extract.

Sweet gods I’m not trying to be mean, I want you to be aware and safe and stop putting yourselves and others at risk. Please.

Like maybe my tone is hard to read, maybe it just comes off as really angry but it’s not, it’s fear and worry. I read posts and clutch my head in alarm going “no! No! That’s how people die!” And then I get exasperated because a bunch of people not formally qualified chime in with “um actually this is a lie” and it’s not, it’s really, really not.

I’m not some big pharma advocate. I’m a crunchy witch hippy just like you with salt rock lamps and rose quartz all over my house. I just happen to have spent the last 15 years of my life studying the actual science of holistic medicines and I’m trying to help you not get hurt (or worse) becuase you trusted a sales person with no idea what the ever loving hell they were talking about beyond a sales pitch designed to maximize profit. Gah.

I see this so often in the Mommy world. There was a lady not long ago in one of the mom groups who was really worried about her toddler. He’d had a persistent cough for weeks and the doctor couldn’t figure out why. Someone asked, well what have to tried to treat it with, so far? She said she was using a humidifier, honey, and eucalyptus EO in the shower every night.

Yeah.

In case you were wondering, eucalyptus can cause respiratory distress in young children.

Sadly I don’t wonder. I have a friend whose daughter died from a home made menthol oil chest rub. She wasn’t even ten yet, but her mom– a qualified aromatherapist– thought she’d be old enough to handle it. She went into respitory distress and died seizing in her mother’s arms on route to the hospital. It was one of the most harrowing stories I had to listen to during my holistic training. She stood up there, on this podium next to a bunch of ponzy scheme essential oil sellers who looked like they wanted the floor to swallow them, and said “I killed my child with good intentions”.

I’ll never forget the look on her face.

So to reiterate, children under the age of ten should not be directly exposed to things like eucalyptus oil, peppermint or wintergreen. If you are using such things in your house and your child starts to complain of headaches, lethargy and general “feel worse”, don’t just assume it’s the cold/flu. Those are all signs of menthol sensitivity and they only get worse with increased exposure. Ventilate the room, take them outside if you can until the air clears. Do not apply again.

Rapid onset wheezing may be a sign of allergic reaction or possible asthma attack triggered by the menthol too. If they tell you their chest is warm or fuzzy when you use it, that’s another sign it’s not going down well with them. Again, ventilate the area or remove anything you applied to them. Administer inhalers if necessary. Watch for any more labored breathing or if they suddenly go limp or you can’t wake them up. If they do call 911.

This can also apply to people with allergies and asthma who are otherwise healthy.

One of the safest, natural ways to alleviate congestion is with just pure good old fashioned warm steam. Keep the air moist, drink plenty of warm fluids. Menthol can help relieve the feeling of congestion, but there’s limited evidence to suggest it actually clears the airways. And for the love of god don’t inhale mustard or horseradish (I’ve seen that suggestion on posts too, though how you’d get those oils I don’t know). That’s literally what tear gas is made of.

Be wary of essential oils on pets too. Lots of that shit is highly toxic to a kitty.

brokenriverside:

rattlejawbone:

Do Not Get A Pet Because You “Want One”

Let me explain:

A lot of people get pets because they see them or see other people with them and decide that they want one. Usually, unless they do a LOT of research into it, they end up completely mistreating the animal. Animals are not cheap, animals are not because “they look cool”, animals are not because your friend had one so you wanted one, too.

Pets are hundreds of dollars of commitment. Even fish. The basic proper setup for a betta is around 5 gallons or more, with a filter, a heater, proper substrate, proper cleaner, water testers, food, a net, and enrichment. Even at its cheapest, this can total to over $100.

Reptiles are becoming more popular these days, and there are a lot of people that don’t realize bearded dragons can get two feet long, ball pythons and corn snakes can get four or five feet long, and that tiny cute little boa can get up to 12 feet long. Snakes, lizards, and frogs can easily reach into the thousands when it comes to proper care for them, not to mention that you need to have a vet that can work with reptiles.

What many people also don’t understand is lifespan. Especially when you have reptiles, they can last anywhere from ten to thirty years. I got my bearded dragon at six months old. He’s now ten and he’s still going strong.

Don’t get a reptile if you can’t handle the commitment and responsibility of caring for an animal that long.

Don’t get a fish because they’re “easy” and “replacable”. Fish are actually some of the most difficult animals to take care of. What most people mean by “easy” is sticking a betta in a vase with a plant. That isn’t easy, that’s animal abuse.

Don’t get a pet without looking into everything it needs, how long it will live, what it eats, the temperature and humidity it needs, and how much it will cost you. I’m fully aware that when I get a boa, it will grow to be large and need to eat mice and rats, which can get around $10 each for large rat. I acknowledge that since it will be so big, I might have to buy or make a custom vivarium just to house it. Do your research from people who are professionals or experienced with handling and caring for said animals.

This is a great post and I just want to add to on the subject of parrot impulse-buying it even if no one will see this (this got really long, holy shit, strap in).

I’ve seen many people getting parrots (ESPECIALLY conures) on a whim because they think that they’re so cool because they can fly and talk and they can become super cuddly. What people don’t realize is that all parrots are incredibly needy, demanding, and hard to work with. They are NOT like dogs, they won’t love you immediately or if you give improper care, they are expensive as all hell, and need so much of your time. A lot of parrot owners describe them as perpetual children or toddlers which can be cute but also involves all the time and all the tantrums. This is going to cover a lot of things really quickly (in like 10 paragraphs, get ready to read a lot more if you want to get a bird) so don’t expect it to be perfect, I just want to give a taste of what parrot ownership can be.

First off is a huge myth about parrot food. Many people think that all birds eat is seed and water. THIS IS NOT FUCKING TRUE. There are SO MANY parrots, specifically budgies, that die hardly a few years into their life because ignorant owners who bought them on impulse feed them only sunflower seed and they get overweight and die of fatty liver disease. Some birds do need seed as a large part of their diet but there are no birds that eat only seed, even finches need occasional greens. The diets vary from species but there are none that should be fed only seed.

And this is really fucking stupid but bird grit is ONLY FOR DOVES AND PIGEONS. I’m unsure if it is used for any other species but I do know that NO PSITTACINES NEED BIRD GRIT. Bird grit is intended for dove-like birds that do not crush or hull their food before swallowing, bird grit is meant to work like the gravel that a wild dove would ingest after eating a meal to help crush the food in their stomachs. IT IS UNSAFE FOR PARROTS. They DO NOT need it because they can easily hull and crush their food. So bird grit only blocks their systems and can get caught in their crops, killing them. I don’t know whose fucking smart idea it was to start selling it advertised for use in parrots but I just want to try to quell that bullshit myth and maybe save a bird’s life.

I also don’t know why so many people think that parrots don’t need time to gain trust, maybe some people think they’re like dogs or others think they aren’t capable of having feelings, but birds can become severely ill and depressed when not interacted with. They need constant attention and enrichment but they can be assholes and not want to be around you 24/7. But just because a bird is nippy doesn’t mean you leave it in a cage all day, that just means that you have to work with them to gain their trust. If your bird feels uncomfortable around you then you need to begin gaining their trust and working with them. Both your lives aren’t going to get any better if you do not work with them or you just simply ignore them. If you get a parrot you’re basically signing a 20-90 year contract of all sorts of emotions and interactions, both good and bad. It is kinda like having a kid because your life now works around the birds, not the other way around. You don’t put up your kid for adoption because it bites you, you work with it and train it out of that and it gets better (that was a weird analogy whoops).

Many people also falsely believe that parrots can just live in these tiny-ass cages that can hardly fit them with their wings spread, much less able to move. I’ve seen so many people keep birds as decoration and not as the amazingly wonderful companions they can be. It’s not super common anymore but just do your research when figuring out the right size cage and the right bar spacing for the specific bird you’re wanting to get. TOYS ARE NEEDED. Birds aren’t just going to sit their looking pretty, leaving them in a lone cage with no toys makes them absolutely miserable and this can lead to many behavior problems including screaming and plucking. You wouldn’t want to live in one room with nothing to do your whole life, don’t condemn your bird to that hell.

BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS ARE NOT UNCOMMON. There are many behavior issues that affect parrots, the larger the species the worse they usually get. They can range from plucking due to stress and mental issues, toe tapping in eclectus due to overdoses in nutrients, screaming because of an irregular schedule or stressful activities, and lunging and biting because of many combinations of issues. Behavioral issues can be hard to solve or find the source of and even more difficult to get rid of in parrots. Many people find plucking to be one of the very worst and most complex issues to solve because the reason could be nearly anything. If you get a bird you HAVE to be prepared to face any potential problems and learn how to treat them and prevention really does go the extra million miles in keeping parrots healthy and happy.

Parrots get sick, it can happen. Sickness is very well hidden in all birds, they do not risk showing illness in the wild in fear of being preyed on because of it. So they have evolved to skillfully hide many signs of illness up until it’s nearly too late. There are many warning signs that you must learn about and I’m not going to even list them here because I want people to actually go and research for themselves. Also, a bird that is mentally unwell, fed and unhealthy diet, and not given enrichment to keep them active are at MUCH HIGHER RISK of contracting illness that birds that are happy and getting all their proper nutrients and exercise.

NOISE NOISE NOISE. Parrots make a hell of a lot of noise. They’re made for it, they evolved so they could scream across long distances to talk to the rest of their flock. They are constantly chattering and letting the rest of the flock know what they’re doing. They were born to mimic the sounds of the rest of the flock which is one reason why humans are so infatuated with them but also a reason why humans cannot handle them most of the time. The usual rule of thumb is that the larger the bird, the larger the noise. This is a pretty good rule most of the time but there are some exceptions. Conures are relatively small but the genus aratinga (literally meaning small macaw) have a SUPER penetrating scream, pionus parrots, though they are medium size, are typically quieter but can have occasional loud screeches, and cockatiels can be louder than you would expect, emitting occasional loud screeches if upset, and several other birds like parrotlets and lovebirds can be very screechy despite their tiny size. Needless to say, parrot calls are not only usually loud, practically every parrot scream can be EXTREMELY irritating to the human ear, some high-pitch and like nails on a chalkboard and others that are just plain ear-splitting loud. If you plan on getting a bird please look up videos of their screams, read about how loud they can be, and understand if you are in a situation that is okay with that.

There are many birds out there, unwanted in rescues and thousands across the US alone that have been through several homes in search of the perfect one with someone who cares. If you are able please adopt instead of shopping. Their are so many birds that are just as sweet and lovely in rescues that are looking for good homes if you can provide one. Don’t go in over your head and get a plucking macaw with biting issues as your first bird but do try to adopt even a few budgies from a rescue if you decide you’d like to give a bird a better life and you’ve done your research.

Not all birds are cuddly, not all birds are sweet, NO BIRD IS PERFECT. When getting a bird all your expectations of having this sweet feather ball that will love you infinitely need to get thrown out the fucking window because they are not going to be like that often if ever. Parrots are NOT PETS. They are companions and you ABSOLUTELY CANNOT expect them to love you if you do not love and care for them. You’re a part of their flock and they simply can’t understand why you don’t care for them because humans and birds come from very different walks of life. Do not get a bird unless you are completely prepared for all the costs, financially and mentally, the time, the frustration, and the never-ending battle of wits against a five-year-old that can scream louder than you (louder always wins). But also know that, if cared for correctly, parrots can be the most strongly-bonded of any animal you’ve ever known and can become friends literally for life. They are very amazing and interesting animals but you must know what you’re getting into before you adopt one.

ADOPT DON’T SHOP, if you’re able, and always remember that you wouldn’t impulse buy a child so don’t buy a parrot as soon as you see all the pretty feathers and inhuman voice saying “hello.”

scalestails:

Goldfish Myths


Introduction

 Goldfish (Carasius auratus auratus) are one of the most popular aquarium fish. Unfortunately, this is because people are lead to believe that they can be kept in small aquariums or, even more popular, fish bowls. These bowls are unsuitable for almost all fish. Keeping a goldfish in one will result in it’s premature death. There are many varieties of goldfish, but they can be split up into two different groups. Fancy goldfish and common goldfish. Fancy goldfish do not get as large as commons, therefore they are more suitable for tanks. Goldfish also do not make good children’s pets because of the large amount of space and maintenance they require. So here are some myths about them and their care that are dangerous to the life of your fish.

Myth #1: Goldfish will only grow to the size of their bowl.


Truth #1: Goldfish will grow to the size of their tank, becoming stunted and unhealthy.

Stunted fish live short, unhealthy lives. You never want to stunt your fish.
So this myth has a little but of truth to it. When a goldfish is put into a bowl, it is creating too much waste for any water change schedule to keep up with. There are a few theories around goldfish and why some are stunted when kept in small bowls and tanks. One theory says that because it has no room to grow, it releases hormones that make it grow slower, stunting it’s growth. Another is that a build up of nitrates are the cause. Either way, the fish will die either due to being exposed to deadly amounts of it’s own waste before it can reach a certain size, or is stunted living a shortened lifespan. Both of those deaths are easily preventable with proper care.

Sources:

Myth #2: Goldfish have a 2 second memory span.

Truth #2: Goldfish have a 2 month memory span, possibly even longer.

This myth has no scientific backing. There have been countless studies involving goldfish and their memory. Goldfish have a normal memory span, they can remember their way through a maze for months; and if the maze is changed they can find their way through with minimal problems.They also associate objects or actions with events like feeding, and can even be taught tricks!

Sources:

Myth #3: Goldfish do not make a lot of waste, and do not get very large so they are suitable for a small tank.


Truth #3: Goldfish make a lot of waste for their size, and some get around a foot long! They are only suitable for large, well filtered aquariums.

 This could not be further from the truth. A full grown common goldfish is around 12-20 inches long. A full grown fancy goldfish is 5-12 inches. These are not small fish. If they do not reach their adult size, as with all animals, something went wrong. Goldfish make a lot of waste for their size, therefore they require large volumes of water and frequent water changes with a strong filter.  A single common goldfish should be kept in a minimum of a 100 gallon tank as an adult. A single fancy goldfish should be kept in a minimum of 20 gallons. Sometimes it is hard to get people to believe that they reach such lengths, but when kept properly they can and should get to be quite large. Therefore, keeping them in a bowl is unacceptable if you value their life. It is extremely unfortunate that this myth is so well known- and believed.

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Myth #4: Goldfish are short lived.


Truth #4: Goldfish are long lived animals, they should live to be 15-25 years old.

This myth also has no truth to it. It’s the exact opposite of what is true. The longest lived goldfish on record died at the age of 43! Now, that doesn’t mean your  goldfish will live that long, but they still live for quite a while. The average goldfish lives for 15-20+ years. That is about as long as a dog or cat. Therefore, when purchasing a goldfish, you must think about whether or not you will be able to care for it during it’s whole life. It’s not something to be taken lightly. A lot of people complain about their goldfish only living for a few weeks or months. This usually happens because the goldfish is kept in a bowl.

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Myth #5: Goldfish do not need filters.


Truth #5: Goldfish need strong filters.

It is recommended to use a filter for twice the volume of water the fish is actually in. Goldfish are notorious for making waste. When dealing with goldfish, you want to get a filter for a tank twice the size of the tank the goldfish are in. Anything less and you will have problems keeping waste levels down.  When a goldfish is alive, it creates waste 24/7. As a fish exhales, they exhale ammonia. They also release waste into the water. This ammonia builds up pretty quickly, and it is your job as the owner to make sure it does not get to dangerous levels. A goldfish in a bowl can create enough waste to make the water dangerous to live in within a day! After being exposed to this dirty water, the fish becomes stressed and ill. It will then die if the water is not cleaned. It is impossible to keep a small tank clean enough for a goldfish to live in it and be healthy for 20 years. Therefore making bowls not even an option.

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Myth #6: Goldfish are tropical fish.


Truth #6: Goldfish are cold water fish, preferring temperatures of 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Goldfish are descended from Prussian Carp, a cold water carp living in parts of Asia.  While goldfish can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, keeping them in warmer water can speed up their metabolism and stress them, making it a poor temperature to be kept at. Goldfish thrive at 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit (18-21 degrees Celsius). Common goldfish can be kept in cooler temperatures during the winter like koi, but fancy goldfish do not tolerate it well.

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Conclusion

In conclusion, goldfish should never be kept in bowls. They get too large, they need strong filtration, and they make too much waste to be kept in something small. Keeping a goldfish in a bowl will kill it. Keep in mind that even if a goldfish lives for 5 years in a bowl, it still didn’t live to half of it’s expected lifespan. If you truely value the life of these living, feeling creatures you will do research before purchasing them and give them an acceptable place to live and level of care.

General goldfish information sources and good reads: